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ramtech





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posted on 6-7-2005 at 21:38 Reply With Quote


blijft mijn vraag waar is die van johan



armen zijn nu echt te kort
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Race-Jan





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posted on 12-7-2005 at 19:47 Reply With Quote


Domme opmerking misschien...

maar ik zie 14 pennetjes en maar 13 gaatjes op de 2 afbeeldingen...

Jan (die vrijdag weer in Leeuwarden te vinden is...)




Race Nice!

Jan
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willem
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posted on 13-7-2005 at 06:49 Reply With Quote


Dat is niet zo dom. Op het regelaarplaatje staan inderdaad 14 pennetjes voor een 15 staps regelaar. Het wiperboardplaatje is 13 pennetjes voor een 14 staps. Ik ben nog aan het uitzoekne wat de beste config is. Dit heeft o0k te maken met de ruimete in de regelaar etc.....



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R-win





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posted on 23-8-2005 at 18:47 Reply With Quote
Another clone



Yes it's finished. A brand new controller like the one Willem made. Some slight changes like the position of the trimpot and a wire from the braking pad to the brake contact.
I hope it will work but we have a summer break at the MRCL, so or it has to wait a few weeks or it can be tested somewhere else.
We'll see.

http://members.chello.nl/e.post7/regelaar.JPG
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Sideways



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posted on 23-8-2005 at 19:09 Reply With Quote


Hoi R-win,

Ziet er goed uit hoor!
Trimpot zit op dezelfde plek als waar ik hem ook heb zitten.

Groet,

Onno.




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R-win





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posted on 23-8-2005 at 22:22 Reply With Quote


Quote:

blijft mijn vraag waar is die van johan


Komt later, eerst maar testen tegen het conventionele spul. En Johan is er zuinig op en dus wat terughoudend v.w.b. het testen door Jan en alleman (spreekwoordelijk, dus niet verwijzend naar Racejan):laugh:
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Race-Jan





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posted on 23-8-2005 at 22:28 Reply With Quote


Grinnik...

voel me ook niet aangesproken :D

Jan (kent geen alleman...)
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willem
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posted on 24-8-2005 at 18:25 Reply With Quote
Commentaar



Als ik die foto zo bekijk dan lijkt het mij dat de wiper gelijktijdig contact maakt met het remcontact en het eerste padje van het wiperboard. Dit mag nooit gelijktijdig melelkaar verbonden zijn. Op het wiperboard staat spanning en feite is dit kortsluiting. Voor de rest ziet het het er cool uit!



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R-win





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cul.gif posted on 24-8-2005 at 22:23 Reply With Quote
Kortsluiting? My ass!



Dat lijkt idd zo te zijn maar het wipercontact is rond, bol en relatief groot en heeft derhalve een klein raakvlak (halve vierkante mm?) met het wiperbord (zie het spoor op het bord van de wiper). Ook zit er een "dood" contactje tussen de rem en de eerste weerstand m.a.w. absoluut geen kans op kortsluiting in dit geval. Heb um trouwens met een trafo, multimeter en NC3-tje getest vanavond en alles lijkt in orde itt de vorige versie.
Kheb ook wat andere weerstandswaarden, eens kijken wat dat doet. Heb je btw je rem al gefixt Willem?
Wanneer ik de veerkracht goed heb afgesteld wil ik eens wat proberen met magneetjes om de wiper steeds goed tegen het remcontact aan te krijgen (en te houden).
Dus een iets te slappe veer gebruiken zodat de wiper net het remcontact niet raakt (=supersoepele trigger) waarbij dan het laatste stukje door magneetkracht wordt aangetrokken zonder dat beide magneten elkaar raken natuurlijk.
Uitvoerbaar of niet?
;)
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Race-Jan





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posted on 24-8-2005 at 23:16 Reply With Quote


Slim
om op het wiperboardje ook een remcontactvlakje te maken, de hele regelaar ziet er trouwens strak uit...
Je idee om magneetjes te gebruiken om de regelaar "op de rem" te houden is ook niet slecht, houdt alleen wel in dat je ook op de wiper een magneetje moet plakken en dat geeft een (kleine) vertraging in je trigger-aktie (want extra bewegend gewicht). Combineer dat met een slappe veer je je zult zien dat de trigger langzamer wordt in het traject van volgas naar rem. Dat wil je niet, want dan moet je eerder van het gas af aan het eind van een recht stuk... dat kost tijd ;)

de kunst is een zo licht mogelijke veer te vinden die nog steeds snel genoeg is...

Well done R-win:holy

Jan
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willem
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posted on 25-8-2005 at 08:01 Reply With Quote
Magneet en dood padje



Met die magneet zou best eens kunnen. Gewoon proberen. Tís alleen nodig als je met extreem weinig trekkracht van je veer wilt rijden. Op die paars / gele controller heb ik nu een extra rempadje gemaakt zodat de regelaar al begint met remmen VOOR dat het remcontact door het messing lipje geraakt wordt.

ben benieuwd naar de eerste test resultaten!;):holy:holy




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ramtech





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posted on 25-8-2005 at 20:29 Reply With Quote


hier al jaren geen problemen met extreem soepele wipers :)



armen zijn nu echt te kort
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Sideways



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posted on 27-8-2005 at 15:21 Reply With Quote


Het uitfrezen van het wiperarmpje zorgt ervoor dat je een mooie constante druk hebt van de button op het wiperbord, zonder dat deze druk te hoog is.
Kijk maar goed op de foto van m'n regelaar hierboven.

Groet,

Onno.




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fola





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posted on 4-10-2005 at 08:44 Reply With Quote


Hi Wilhelm,
I am impressed.
I am in Germany and I have an NSR controller and a Diode controller (Cheap)
They are both good for different things although i am not really happy with the fact that i need to choose different chips for the NSR very techy but too complicated
How does your controller compare?
Where can i get the wiper board and the arm pictured in your post?
Is the green anodised frame a Parma Spare??
get back to me, would like more info.
Thanks
fola

Quote:
Originally posted by willem
One with an external box and a blast relay and two with the darlington transistor (mj11015) in the controller handle

http://www.slotracinglemans.com/newforum/images/onno1.jpg




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willem
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posted on 4-10-2005 at 11:41 Reply With Quote
Controller parts and behaviour



Fola,

The NSR controller is what we call a very slow response controller. in practise it means that the engine does not respond quickly to wiper movements.
The picture with the green baseplate actually uses an old NSR wiperboard but with a complete different setup in terms of used components.

In the "old days" Parma used to have green, blue and gold plated base frames. Not anymore unfortunatly. I've managed to get a blue a gold one but they are difficult to find. On ebay there are still some to be sold.

The wiperarm on the picture is actually a modified parma wiperarm. Because the standard wiperarm pressure is far to high we loosen up it a little by cutting a hole it with a dremel.

The use of different components for the transistor, pots and the resistors the behaviour of the controller can be best described as what I call a "progressive" controller. The reaction of the engine is direct and fast.

The feedback I got from several known drivers in the circuit is very positive. Generally the comments are:
1) The car does what I "tell" it to do
2) The pots allow a very fine adjustment to everyones driving style.

Cheers




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fola





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posted on 4-10-2005 at 18:03 Reply With Quote


Thanks for getting back!
I am interested in your controller.
Can put one together without too much fuss, Would you be able to
get the components for me ( for a fee .. ;-I) ?
I saw you posted something that looked like instructions or tips but was all in Dutch :-((
nix verstehen!
Can you help me out?
fola




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willem
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posted on 4-10-2005 at 20:16 Reply With Quote
Kein problem.......morgen.....zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz







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willem
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posted on 5-10-2005 at 11:00 Reply With Quote
Unterteilen regler



1 X Parma turbo kit (#258)
2 X Plafit 3mm kugellager (fur trigger)
1 X euro leitplatte
1X 100 ohm pot
1X 10 ohm trimpot
1X 2k2 ohm pot
1X draht gewunden 10 ohm pot (fur bremse)
1 X MJ11015 transistor (PNP)




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iti20090





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posted on 28-10-2005 at 07:15 Reply With Quote


Hi Folks

I used a simple Tip36c transistor set up, bolted to the frame of the Parma Economy controller, for Scalex and S16D for a friend's commercial raceway operating on a "dry" wood surface. This was ok but the 6 x 18 ohm (total 108 ohm) wiper board chain was hopelessly too mushy with S16D on the sticky traction surface at our club track. I switched to the new AB 6 x 5 ohm (30 ohm total) chain, which was far better but the two AB style 10ohm pots are difficult to come by and expensive in SA.

Willem's original set up with the 50 and 250 ohm pots seems a more attractive option, cost wise, but I wondered if I would be back to the same "mushy" problem again - maybe it is more problem of the Tip36c transistor than PNP transistors?

All advice would be most appreciated.

Regards
Dave in Durban

Quote:
Originally posted by willem
1 X Parma turbo kit (#258)
2 X Plafit 3mm kugellager (fur trigger)
1 X euro leitplatte
1X 100 ohm pot
1X 10 ohm trimpot
1X 2k2 ohm pot
1X draht gewunden 10 ohm pot (fur bremse)
1 X MJ11015 transistor (PNP)
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ramtech





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posted on 28-10-2005 at 17:04 Reply With Quote


its the transistor look at the hfe ratings jour tip is between 50 and 100 and the mj11015 between 300 and 1000:cool:



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willem
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posted on 28-10-2005 at 17:40 Reply With Quote
Tor and curve



Exactly like Erwin says. Another thing that adds a little extra is the resistors used on each band but the tor is by far the most important component to change.

Cheers




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iti20090





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posted on 31-10-2005 at 09:04 Reply With Quote


Thanks guys

Some further info on the hfe range Erwin refers to, would be most appreciated.

Regards
Dave

Quote:
Originally posted by willem
Exactly like Erwin says. Another thing that adds a little extra is the resistors used on each band but the tor is by far the most important component to change.

Cheers
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willem
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posted on 31-10-2005 at 11:19 Reply With Quote
Hfe is not more then 50, see attachment





Attachment: tip35c.pdf (47.33kb)
This file has been downloaded 1240 times




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stewij





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posted on 8-1-2006 at 14:39 Reply With Quote


Quote:
Originally posted by iti20090
Hi Willem

How is progress on this one? Asseblief ;-)

Cheers
Dave


Well there is some progress with that one. Willem recently mailed me his drawing. Currently I am re-design his drawing while Willem uses Eagle PCB and I am addicted to Orcad Layout. So that will take some time but I hope that I can give some pictures of the new drawing in about 2 weeks. The entire controller will be made on one single layer PCB.
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iti20090





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posted on 22-5-2006 at 11:49 Reply With Quote


Hi Willem

My Tip 36c has done me well for 1/32 Scalex and 1/24 S16D till now but our club has introduced the Group 12 GT 12 class, which means a resistor board change for my existing controllers to counter the flat feel, my Professor electronic fuse failsafe also kicking in after a couple of minutes of GT12. I would thus like to do a single MJ11015 build, especially as the pots are much cheaper in the higher values, which is useful for the youngsters:

1. Will the single MJ11015 circuit drive the GT 12 ok, along with the Scalex and S16D?
2. I only know of the Veroboard with holes and the PC board which has to be scribed, is the wiper board in the pictures and mentioned below available through the electonic shops and under what name?

Sorry if much of this is covered already, my Afrikaans does let me follow the gist but I do miss some.

Kind regards
Dave


Quote:
Originally posted by willem

All the parts used are standard available in every electronic shop. No fancy stuff was used.
The wiperboard can be bought there as well.

If you have any questions don't hesitate to reply.

Cheers
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