| Topic Review |
2h
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posted on 25-9-2004 at 13:32 |
Well, this little sucker need to go thome to daddy and get fixed, since it be burnt.
How can you asses otherwise, when the documentation says 60A continious. How am I to guess that I have to see how many FETs there are and divide those
with the Amps listed?? I virtually have no knowledge about electronic components and how they work.
I was running it at 13.8V, with 3 different motors, a Super 16, an X12 (getting warm) and a Eurosport (this is where it got hot).
So I need to ship it back to you guys...
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willem
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posted on 16-9-2004 at 09:07 |
I know it says in the specs the Tech 2000 can handle 60 AMP's with a maximum voltage of 16 volts. These 60 AMP's need to be devided by the
amount of FET's mounted under the wiperboard as Erwin said earlier.
So through an 8 FET controller the current per FET should be 7,5 AMP's MAX.
Now maybe the FET can handle that current but I'm certain the rest of the controller CAN NOT!
I wouldn't trust the Tech 2000 with more the around 6 to 10 AMP's current.
Then the voltage:
The controller is built for 16 volt MAX. It handles 18 or maybe 20 but I'm quit certain that anything above 18 volt will have a negative effect
on the way how the controller reacts. It doesn't break down at these voltages but it certainly starts to behave strange.
In Amsterdam we have quit a lot of experience with the Muco electronic controller (Now called the Tech 2000). It has always been a very good
controller in it's overall performance although slightly expensive.
One known negative side of the controller is the way how it controls the output. It's actually the current which is controlled and not the
voltage.
This means that for example at half throttle the engine wil get the full voltage but the current is pulsating to the engine.
You can test this for yourself by turning back the middle knob completely and start to slowly move the wiper to the first one or pads on the
wiperboard. You will then hear the engine whizzling which is the pulsating current.
The negative side of this is that the engine will heat up much quicker then with a risistor or normal transistored controller.
Hope this helps
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Paal
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posted on 16-9-2004 at 07:11 |
| Quote: | Originally posted by Gert
Henrik
You should use a terminator to the red connection.
I will bring you a few when I'm there in October.
Better dont use it for that heavy stuf again.
You might create a real tchernobyle, :mad:
Greetz Gert: First the Glue now this  |
Aahhh, but Gert, you know you can´t trust the danes equipment, specially not the advanced electronic stuff
Greetings From New York City
Øvlebøvle
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Gert
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posted on 15-9-2004 at 20:54 |
Henrik
You should use a terminator to the red connection.
I will bring you a few when I'm there in October.
Better dont use it for that heavy stuf again.
You might create a real tchernobyle, :mad:
Greetz Gert: First the Glue now this
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2h
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posted on 15-9-2004 at 19:20 |
Yep, got that smoke out good :gun:
It seems to be the 8 fet version.
It didn't start smoking though, but is it supposed to be able to handle 60A or is it not?
Or is it normal that it starts smelling. I have had no heat problems with it when running Bison motors on 19,5V (I know they only pulls about 1,5A)
Now, will the Tech 2000 run an X12 motor, or will it not?? I had no problems controlling it, but I don't want my little office worker hand burned
either  
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ramtech
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posted on 15-9-2004 at 18:57 |
Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside... only a real genius can find a way to get it out...
if things start smelling its no good stick with the tjernobyl.
only one question is it the 8 fets version(you can count them under the wiperboard)
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2h
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posted on 15-9-2004 at 18:46 |
Guys,
I was trying my Tech 2000 controller on a King track yesterday. It went great with the Super 16D motor, got a bit warm with an X12 - but with the
Euroscale go-fast-pull-30Amp motor is started smelling a bit and got hotter. I pulled it off the track, let it cool and tried it again with a 16D and
it works fine.
I tried to gobblle through the Dutch manual, and can see that it is supposed to handle 60 Amps with 150 A peak.
Is this smell and heat normal and should I just go race with it. Otherwise I'll have to use the Thjernobyl controller, some og you will remember
from Le Mans :-)
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